When you can recoat
Light scratches, dull spots and yellowing can be fixed with a fresh top coat. Deep chips, soft spots or delamination need the damaged area cut out and refilled first.
Step 1: assess the damage
Press a fingernail into the surface. A hard, glassy feel means the epoxy is sound and can be sanded and recoated. A soft or gummy patch means the original mix was wrong and must be removed.
Step 2: clean and sand
Degrease with isopropyl alcohol, then sand with 120 and 220 grit to give the new coat a key. Vacuum dust and wipe with a dry cloth. Do not use a tack cloth on epoxy.
Step 3: fill chips
Mask around the chip, mix a small batch of the same epoxy, and fill slightly proud of the surface. Cure, then sand flush with 220.
Step 4: recoat
Pour a thin flood coat at about 1/8 inch, spread with a plastic spreader and tip off with a heat gun. Keep edges wet so the film does not pull back.
Step 5: cure
Wait 24 hours for light use and 72 hours before heavy use. Full hardness takes about a week.
Frequently asked questions
Can I recoat over a different brand?
Usually yes if the old surface is fully cured and sanded, but test a small patch first.
Why did the old coat yellow?
UV exposure. Use a UV-stabilised top coat near windows.
Can I polish instead of recoating?
For dullness, yes. For chips and yellowing, a recoat is the only fix.
Related reading
Shop table top kits or read the countertop guide.
